SHELTERS
A
shelter can protect you from the sun, insects, wind, rain, snow, hot or
cold
temperatures, and enemy observation. It can give you a feeling of
well-being.
It can help you maintain your will to survive.
In
some areas, your need for shelter may take precedence over your need
for food
and possibly even your need for water. For example, prolonged exposure
to cold
can cause excessive fatigue and weakness (exhaustion). An exhausted
person may
develop a "passive" outlook, thereby losing the will to survive.
The
most common error in making a shelter is to make it too large. A
shelter must
be large enough to protect you. It must also be small enough to contain
your
body heat, especially in cold climates.
SHELTER SITE SELECTION
When
you are in a survival
situation and realize that shelter is a high priority, start looking
for
shelter as soon as possible. As you do so, remember what you will need
at the
site. Two requisites are--
- It must contain material to make the
type of shelter you need.
- It must be large enough and level
enough for you to lie down comfortably.
When
you consider these
requisites, however, you cannot ignore your tactical situation or your
safety.
You must also consider whether the site--
- Provides concealment from enemy
observation.
- Has camouflaged escape routes.
- Is suitable for signaling, if
necessary.
- Provides protection against wild
animals and rocks and dead trees that might fall.
- Is free from insects, reptiles, and
poisonous plants.
You
must also remember the
problems that could arise in your environment. For instance--
- Avoid flash flood areas in
foothills.
- Avoid avalanche or rockslide areas
in mountainous terrain.
- Avoid sites near bodies of water
that are below the high water mark.
In
some areas, the season of
the year has a strong bearing on the site you select. Ideal sites for a
shelter
differ in winter and summer. During cold winter months you will want a
site
that will protect you from the cold and wind, but will have a source of
fuel
and water. During summer months in the same area you will want a source
of
water, but you will want the site to be almost insect free.
When
considering shelter site
selection, use the word BLISS as a guide.
B
-
Blend in with the surroundings.
L
-
Low silhouette.
I
-
Irregular shape.
S
- Small.
S
-
Secluded location.
TYPES OF SHELTERS
When
looking for a shelter
site, keep in mind the type of shelter (protection) you need. However,
you must
also consider--
- How much time and effort you need to
build the shelter.
- If the shelter will adequately
protect you from the elements (sun, wind, rain, snow).
- If you have the tools to build it.
If not, can you make improvised tools?
- If you have the type and amount of
materials needed to build it.
To
answer these questions,
you need to know how to make various types of shelters and what
materials you
need to make them.
Poncho
Lean-To
It
takes only a short time
and minimal equipment to build this lean-to (Figure
5-1). You need a poncho, 2 to 3 meters of rope or parachute
suspension line, three stakes about 30 centimeters long, and two trees
or two
poles 2 to 3 meters apart. Before selecting the trees you will use or
the
location of your poles, check the wind direction. Ensure that the back
of your
lean-to will be into the wind.
To
make the lean-to--
- Tie off the hood of the poncho. Pull
the drawstring tight, roll the hood longways, fold it into thirds, and
tie it off with the drawstring.
- Cut the rope in half. On one long
side of the poncho, tie half of the rope to the corner grommet. Tie the
other half to the other corner grommet.
- Attach a drip stick (about a
10-centimeter stick) to each rope about 2.5 centimeters from the
grommet. These drip sticks will keep rainwater from running down the
ropes into the lean-to. Tying strings (about 10 centimeters long) to
each grommet along the poncho's top edge will allow the water to run to
and down the line without dripping into the shelter.
- Tie the ropes about waist high on
the trees (uprights). Use a round turn and two half hitches with a
quick-release knot.
- Spread the poncho and anchor it to
the ground, putting sharpened sticks through the grommets and into the
ground.
If you
plan to use the
lean-to for more than one night, or you expect rain, make a center
support for
the lean-to. Make this support with a line. Attach one end of the line
to the
poncho hood and the other end to an overhanging branch. Make sure there
is no
slack in the line.
Another
method is to place a
stick upright under the center of the lean-to. This method, however,
will
restrict your space and movements in the shelter.
For
additional protection
from wind and rain, place some brush, your rucksack, or other equipment
at the
sides of the lean-to.
To
reduce heat loss to the
ground, place some type of insulating material, such as leaves or pine
needles,
inside your lean-to.
Note:
When at rest, you lose as much as 80 percent of your body heat to the
ground.
To
increase your security
from enemy observation, lower the lean-to's silhouette by making two
changes.
First, secure the support lines to the trees at knee height (not at
waist
height) using two knee-high sticks in the two center grommets (sides of
lean-to). Second, angle the poncho to the ground, securing it with
sharpened
sticks, as above.
Poncho
Tent
This
tent (Figure
5-2) provides a low silhouette. It also protects you from the
elements on two sides. It has, however, less usable space and
observation area
than a lean-to, decreasing your reaction time to enemy detection. To
make this
tent, you need a poncho, two 1.5- to 2.5-meter ropes, six sharpened
sticks
about 30 centimeters long, and two trees 2 to 3 meters apart.
To
make the tent--
- Tie off the poncho hood in the same
way as the poncho lean-to.
- Tie a 1.5- to 2.5-meter rope to the
center grommet on each side of the poncho.
- Tie the other ends of these ropes at
about knee height to two trees 2 to 3 meters apart and stretch the
poncho tight.
- Draw one side of the poncho tight
and secure it to the ground pushing sharpened sticks through the
grommets.
- Follow the same procedure on the
other side.
If you
need a center support,
use the same methods as for the poncho lean-to. Another center support
is an
A-frame set outside but over the center of the tent (Figure
5-3). Use two 90- to 120-centimeter-long sticks, one with a forked
end, to form the A-frame. Tie the hood's drawstring to the A-frame to
support
the center of the tent.
Three-Pole
Parachute Tepee
If you
have a parachute and
three poles and the tactical situation allows, make a parachute tepee.
It is
easy and takes very little time to make this tepee. It provides
protection from
the elements and can act as a signaling device by enhancing a small
amount of
light from a fire or candle. It is large enough to hold several people
and
their equipment and to allow sleeping, cooking, and storing firewood.
You
can make this tepee using
parts of or a whole personnel main or reserve parachute canopy. If
using a
standard personnel parachute, you need three poles 3.5 to 4.5 meters
long and
about 5 centimeters in diameter.
To
make this tepee (Figure
5-4)--
- Lay the poles on the ground and lash
them together at one end.
- Stand the framework up and spread
the poles to form a tripod.
- For more support, place additional
poles against the tripod. Five or six additional poles work best, but
do not lash them to the tripod.
- Determine the wind direction and
locate the entrance 90 degrees or more from the mean wind direction.
- Lay out the parachute on the
"backside" of the tripod and locate the bridle loop (nylon web loop) at
the top (apex) of the canopy.
- Place the bridle loop over the top
of a free-standing pole. Then place the pole back up against the tripod
so that the canopy's apex is at the same height as the lashing on the
three poles.
- Wrap the canopy around one side of
the tripod. The canopy should be of double thickness, as you are
wrapping an entire parachute. You need only wrap half of the tripod, as
the remainder of the canopy will encircle the tripod in the opposite
direction.
- Construct the entrance by wrapping
the folded edges of the canopy around two free-standing poles. You can
then place the poles side by side to close the tepee's entrance.
- Place all extra canopy underneath
the tepee poles and inside to create a floor for the shelter.
- Leave a 30- to 50-centimeter opening
at the top for ventilation if you intend to have a fire inside the
tepee.
One-Pole
Parachute Tepee
You
need a 14-gore section
(normally) of canopy, stakes, a stout center pole, and inner core and
needle to
construct this tepee. You cut the suspension lines except for 40- to
45-centimeter lengths at the canopy's lower lateral band.
To
make this tepee (Figure
5-5)--
- Select a shelter site and scribe a
circle about 4 meters in diameter on the ground.
- Stake the parachute material to the
ground using the lines remaining at the lower lateral band.
- After deciding where to place the
shelter door, emplace a stake and tie the first line (from the lower
lateral band) securely to it.
- Stretch the parachute material taut
to the next line, emplace a stake on the scribed line, and tie the line
to it.
- Continue the staking process until
you have tied all the lines.
- Loosely attach the top of the
parachute material to the center pole with a suspension line you
previously cut and, through trial and error, determine the point at
which the parachute material will be pulled tight once the center pole
is upright.
- Then securely attach the material to
the pole.
- Using a suspension line (or inner
core), sew the end gores together leaving 1 or 1.2 meters for a door.
No-Pole
Parachute Tepee
You
use the same materials,
except for the center pole, as for the one-pole parachute tepee.
To
make this tepee (Figure
5-6)--
- Tie a line to the top of parachute
material with a previously cut suspension line.
- Throw the line over a tree limb, and
tie it to the tree trunk.
- Starting at the opposite side from
the door, emplace a stake on the scribed 3.5- to 4.3-meter circle.
- Tie the first line on the lower
lateral band.
- Continue emplacing the stakes and
tying the lines to them.
- After staking down the material,
unfasten the line tied to the tree trunk, tighten the tepee material by
pulling on this line, and tie it securely to the tree trunk.
One-Man
Shelter
A
one-man shelter you can
easily make using a parachute requires a tree and three poles. One pole
should
be about 4.5 meters long and the other two about 3 meters long.
To
make this shelter (Figure
5-7)--
- Secure the 4.5-meter pole to the
tree at about waist height.
- Lay the two 3-meter poles on the
ground on either side of and in the same direction as the 4.5-meter
pole.
- Lay the folded canopy over the 4.5
meter pole so that about the same amount of material hangs on both
sides.
- Tuck the excess material under the
3-meter poles, and spread it on the ground inside to serve as a floor.
- Stake down or put a spreader between
the two 3-meter poles at the shelter's entrance so they will not slide
inward.
- Use any excess material to cover the
entrance.
The
parachute cloth makes
this shelter wind resistant, and the shelter is small enough that it is
easily
warmed. A candle, used carefully, can keep the inside temperature
comfortable.
This shelter is unsatisfactory, however, when snow is falling as even a
light
snowfall will cave it in.
Parachute
/ Tarp Hammock
You
can make a hammock using
6 to 8 gores of parachute canopy or a tarp and two trees about 4.5
meters apart
(Figure
5-8).
Field-Expedient
Lean-To
If you
are in a wooded area
and have enough natural materials, you can make a field-expedient
lean-to (Figure
5-9) without the aid of tools or with only a knife. It takes longer to
make
this type of shelter than it does to make other types, but it will
protect you
from the elements.
You
will need two trees (or
upright poles) about 2 meters apart; one pole about 2 meters long and
2.5
centimeters in diameter; five to eight poles about 3 meters long and
2.5
centimeters in diameter for beams; cord or vines for securing the
horizontal
support to the trees; and other poles, saplings, or vines to crisscross
the
beams.
To
make this lean-to--
- Tie the 2-meter pole to the two
trees at waist to chest height. This is the horizontal support. If a
standing tree is not available, construct a biped using Y-shaped sticks
or two tripods.
- Place one end of the beams (3-meter
poles) on one side of the horizontal support. As with all lean-to type
shelters, be sure to place the lean-to's backside into the wind.
- Crisscross saplings or vines on the
beams.
- Cover the framework with brush,
leaves, pine needles, or grass, starting at the bottom and working your
way up like shingling.
- Place straw, leaves, pine needles,
or grass inside the shelter for bedding.
In
cold weather, add to your
lean-to's comfort by building a fire reflector wall (Figure
5-9). Drive four 1.5-meter-long stakes into the ground to support the
wall.
Stack green logs on top of one another between the support stakes. Form
two
rows of stacked logs to create an inner space within the wall that you
can fill
with dirt. This action not only strengthens the wall but makes it more
heat
reflective. Bind the top of the support stakes so that the green logs
and dirt
will stay in place.
With
just a little more
effort you can have a drying rack. Cut a few 2-centimeter-diameter
poles
(length depends on the distance between the lean-to's horizontal
support and
the top of the fire reflector wall). Lay one end of the poles on the
lean-to
support and the other end on top of the reflector wall. Place and tie
into
place smaller sticks across these poles. You now have a place to dry
clothes,
meat, or fish.
Swamp
Bed
In a
marsh or swamp, or any
area with standing water or continually wet ground, the swamp bed
(Figure
5-10) keeps you out of the water. When selecting such a site, consider
the
weather, wind, tides, and available materials.
To
make a swamp bed--
- Look for four trees clustered in a
rectangle, or cut four poles (bamboo is ideal) and drive them firmly
into the ground so they form a rectangle. They should be far enough
apart and strong enough to support your height and weight, to include
equipment.
- Cut two poles that span the width of
the rectangle. They, too, must be strong enough to support your weight.
- Secure these two poles to the trees
(or poles). Be sure they are high enough above the ground or water to
allow for tides and high water.
- Cut additional poles that span the
rectangle's length. Lay them across the two side poles, and secure
them.
- Cover the top of the bed frame with
broad leaves or grass to form a soft sleeping surface.
- Build a fire pad by laying clay,
silt, or mud on one comer of the swamp bed and allow it to dry.
Another
shelter designed to
get you above and out of the water or wet ground uses the same
rectangular
configuration as the swamp bed. You very simply lay sticks and branches
lengthwise on the inside of the trees (or poles) until there is enough
material
to raise the sleeping surface above the water level.
Natural
Shelters
Do not
overlook natural
formations that provide shelter. Examples are caves, rocky crevices,
clumps of
bushes, small depressions, large rocks on leeward sides of hills, large
trees
with low-hanging limbs, and fallen trees with thick branches. However,
when
selecting a natural formation--
- Stay away from low ground such as
ravines, narrow valleys, or creek beds. Low areas collect the heavy
cold air at night and are therefore colder than the surrounding high
ground. Thick, brushy, low ground also harbors more insects.
- Check for poisonous snakes, ticks,
mites, scorpions, and stinging ants.
- Look for loose rocks, dead limbs,
coconuts, or other natural growth than could fall on your shelter.
Debris
Hut
For
warmth and ease of
construction, this shelter is one of the best. When shelter is
essential to
survival, build this shelter.
To
make a debris hut (Figure
5-11)--
- Build it by making a tripod with two
short stakes and a long ridgepole or by placing one end of a long
ridgepole on top of a sturdy base.
- Secure the ridgepole (pole running
the length of the shelter) using the tripod method or by anchoring it
to a tree at about waist height.
- Prop large sticks along both sides
of the ridgepole to create a wedge-shaped ribbing effect. Ensure the
ribbing is wide enough to accommodate your body and steep enough to
shed moisture.
- Place finer sticks and brush
crosswise on the ribbing. These form a latticework that will keep the
insulating material (grass, pine needles, leaves) from falling through
the ribbing into the sleeping area.
- Add light, dry, if possible, soft
debris over the ribbing until the insulating material is at least 1
meter thick--the thicker the better.
- Place a 30-centimeter layer of
insulating material inside the shelter.
- At the entrance, pile insulating
material that you can drag to you once inside the shelter to close the
entrance or build a door.
- As a final step in constructing this
shelter, add shingling material or branches on top of the debris layer
to prevent the insulating material from blowing away in a storm.
Tree-Pit
Snow Shelter
If you
are in a cold,
snow-covered area where evergreen trees grow and you have a digging
tool, you
can make a tree-pit shelter (Figure
5-12).
To
make this shelter--
- Find a tree with bushy branches that
provides overhead cover.
- Dig out the snow around the tree
trunk until you reach the depth and diameter you desire, or until you
reach the ground.
- Pack the snow around the top and the
inside of the hole to provide support.
- Find and cut other evergreen boughs.
Place them over the top of the pit to give you additional overhead
cover. Place evergreen boughs in the bottom of the pit for insulation.
See
Chapter 15 for other
arctic or cold weather shelters.
Beach
Shade Shelter
This
shelter protects you
from the sun, wind, rain, and heat. It is easy to make using natural
materials.
To
make this shelter (Figure
5-13)--
- Find and collect driftwood or other
natural material to use as support beams and as a digging tool.
- Select a site that is above the high
water mark.
- Scrape or dig out a trench running
north to south so that it receives the least amount of sunlight. Make
the trench long and wide enough for you to lie down comfortably.
- Mound soil on three sides of the
trench. The higher the mound, the more space inside the shelter.
- Lay support beams (driftwood or
other natural material) that span the trench on top of the mound to
form the framework for a roof.
- Enlarge the shelter's entrance by
digging out more sand in front of it.
- Use natural materials such as grass
or leaves to form a bed inside the shelter.
Desert
Shelters
In an
arid environment,
consider the time, effort, and material needed to make a shelter. If
you have
material such as a poncho, canvas, or a parachute, use it along with
such
terrain features as rock outcropping, mounds of sand, or a depression
between
dunes or rocks to make your shelter.
Using
rock outcroppings--
- Anchor one end of your poncho
(canvas, parachute, or other material) on the edge of the outcrop using
rocks or other weights.
- Extend and anchor the other end of
the poncho so it provides the best possible shade.
In a
sandy area--
- Build a mound of sand or use the
side of a sand dune for one side of the shelter.
- Anchor one end of the material on
top of the mound using sand or other weights.
- Extend and anchor the other end of
the material so it provides the best possible shade.
Note:
If you have enough material, fold it in half and form a 30-centimeter
to
45-centimeter airspace between the two halves. This airspace will
reduce the
temperature under the shelter.
A
belowground shelter (Figure
5-14) can reduce the midday heat as much as 16 to 22 degrees C (30 to
40
degrees F). Building it, however, requires more time and effort than
for other
shelters. Since your physical effort will make you sweat more and
increase
dehydration, construct it before the heat of the day.
To
make this shelter--
- Find a low spot or depression
between dunes or rocks. If necessary, dig a trench 45 to 60 centimeters
deep and long and wide enough for you to lie in comfortably.
- Pile the sand you take from the
trench to form a mound around three sides.
- On the open end of the trench, dig
out more sand so you can get in and out of your shelter easily.
- Cover the trench with your material.
- Secure the material in place using
sand, rocks, or other weights.
If you
have extra material,
you can further decrease the midday temperature in the trench by
securing the
material 30 to 45 centimeters above the other cover. This layering of
the
material will reduce the inside temperature 11 to 22 degrees C (20 to
40
degrees F).
Another
type of belowground
shade shelter is of similar construction, except all sides are open to
air
currents and circulation. For maximum protection, you need a minimum of
two
layers of parachute material (Figure
5-15). White is the best color to reflect heat; the innermost layer
should
be of darker material.